Peluqueria

Today marks our final official day at Grameen. Tomorrow marks the first day of a two week trip throughout Argentina, Chile, and Paraguay.

I'm excited to go home, but a part of me will always be here with the people I've come to love over my short stay here. I'll miss them all - particularly this one.

Peluqueria with Viktoria

Isn't she adorable?

Los Seres Humanos

Arana has been a point of contention amongst the Grameen Bank operators since the inception of the new center. In physical distance, it is only a few blocks and two bus rides away. However, it couldn’t be further away in emotional and mental distance.

Arana was not always as rural and still as it is now. The abandoned offices were once milling with people. Factories turned profits and trains sped by on their ways to all-important destinations. But Argentina is a vibrant and dynamic country. Arana couldn’t have expected it to stay still forever. But when Argentina’s political and economic climates changed drastically, the factories failed to adjust.

The now closed and abandoned shell of a factory now stands as an ominous portent of the risks of failing to progress. Yet, the people who occupy the area fail to heed it; they are quick to close their hearts and minds at the first sign of change or trouble and are slow to explore and discuss possible solutions. Yet, oddly enough, all of this town that is so set in its ways closes for the formal presentation of the presidential candidate, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, the wife of current President Néstor Kirchner, who is attempting to ride on the coattails of the much loved Eva Perón. Aside from having been Argentina’s First Lady at one point in time, the two couldn’t be any more different. Fernández lacks the heart for the humble that was the driving force behind Evita, her benevolence, and her popularity. Yet it was precisely for this announcement that all of the humble community of Arana, its schools, and businesses closed.

It is undoubtedly an estranged area. However, the people in it are still los seres humanos, and in this commonality we find the ability to relate to them, commiserating with them in their difficulties, and rejoicing in their successes. It’s an odd thing, this commonality that transcends not only city lines, but social classes, religious sects, and political lines, as well. And sometimes, for one to be able to interact on a meaningful level with those who appear to be the others, one must only see and respect this commonality. Most of the time, this respect is all “they” want and need.

Cultural Immersion

What cultural experience would be complete without an encounter with the country's medical system? So when I wound up in the emergency room with a torn ligament today, I did what any rational patient would do: I took pictures.

Doctor's Station

View 1 from the examination table.

View 2 from the examination table
View 3 reclining on the examination table

I found the experience riveting, beginning with the smoke-filled hallways and waiting rooms. In exchange for my first and last name, and age, I was immediately admitted into the emergency room. After a short wait, a young doctor clad in street clothing knelt down, proceeded to poke my ankle, look at my wincing face, and promptly declare the ligament to be torn, prescribing me painkillers without a single question regarding my medical history. House would've loved the medical system here. :) And then I was out the door. No insurance, no fees, and no forms. Just a "ciao."

Dinner at Roberto's

Homes here in La Plata differ in building material ranging from wood and stecco to brick and concrete. They are antiquated, modern, highly stylized, simple, well-constructed, or falling to pieces. Many are rather small. It's a wonder that they can pack in so much love and hospitality in addition to the 3 ... 8 ... 14 children in each family.

Dinner at Roberto's was a great glimpse into an Argentine family. The level of affection that pervades Argentine culture is perhaps most starkly seen in the kisses with which they all greet each other here. This affection is even stronger within the household, between siblings, and parents and their children.

In stark contrast to the image of a stately or reserved father, Roberto, a former film director created a photo montage for Violeta, appropriately set to the song Pompilla. Immanuel has an extremely close relationship with Mariaemma, his mom, with whom he shares every detail of his day as soon as he gets home. Rather than shrug off hugs and feign a macho demeanor as many of the teenage boys his age do, he openly hugs and kisses his little brothers, and speaks with respect of Violeta and Juan.

Roberto and Mariaemma have given their children the freedom to choose nearly everything for themselves. Perhaps it was because they were such strong models of honesty, solidarity, humility, and moral upstanding themselves, that the children given such free reign, chose to become such strong and wise people. Undoubtedly, the openly expressed unconditional love that the parents showed them helped make them into the confident people that they are today.

Violeta and Auca

Auca

Violeta and RobertoMariaemma and Immanuel

Microfinance

Grameen Bank of La Plata focuses on giving loans to improve a borrower’s life holistically. This is precisely because microfinance is founded on the idea of solidarity as collateral. It is a solid attestation to the fact that you can strip people of all financial and material possessions, and they can still create value from solidarity, respect, and trust.

This focus on improving the lives of borrowers holistically gives microfinance its strength in an emotional and personal aspect, but it is also a significant weakness when it comes to intellectual or financial senses, because oftentimes, this focus on solidarity and trust inhibits the bank from doing the financially sound thing.

And this polar contrast is perhaps perfectly exhibited by Oscar and Anna. Thursday, July 5 marked the grand opening of a new Grameen center in Arana. But it has been a topic of contention for quite some time between the individuals at the bank with different ideologies. Anna questions the bank’s new presence in Arana. It is a crudely constructed neighborhood that has arisen from the remains of an abandoned oil factory. On any given day, you’ll see more cows, horses, and stray dogs than you will see people. Yes, the potential market is too small. Yes, there isn’t enough potential for diversity to avoid competition between the borrowers. Yes, managing risk will be a challenging if not impossible task. Yes, it is inefficient to stretch the bank’s resources out to reach such an isolated area. Yes. Yes. Yes. But the need is there, and that is why they must go, Oscar says – the poorer the borrowers, the better.

As its name entails, microfinance is still concerned with finance. And risk management is undoubtedly a key concern here with these high risk-profile borrowers. It is just that oftentimes, personal and emotional concerns trump financial soundness. And so Grameen has a 94% repayment rate excluding interest, and is still not self-sustainable. How can we find a balance?

Abandoned railroad station, now a home.

Abandoned boxcar, now a home.

Ramona, a former borrower, now a new group leader with Grameen

Roberto

The Grand Opening in the Community Center

Paola and her children with her first loan

Oscar and Roberto

The Weekend in Pictures

Hostal Don Sanchez

(apparently on one of the dodgiest streets in BA)

La Boca
(El Caminito)La Cancha de Boca

La Casa Amarilla

Plaza Mayor
(Casa Rosada)

The Cathedral by Plaza Mayor

Parque Lezzama

(Not Pictured: Tango at Homero Manzi (!!!), Avenida de Corrientes, Avenida Florida, La Recoleta, the mausoleum of Eva Peron, Plaza Francia)

P.S.
It is 9:30 PM (PDT), and my mother is at a Rain concert.

On Education

Oscar says an Argentine’s quality of life is directly correlated with the years of education he or she has had.

Fortunately, an Argentine education is free.
Unfortunately, nothing else is.

For students to take advantage of education, they must first have clothing, books, pencils, paper, homes, and food in their stomachs. But they don't. And so they cannot afford free education.

And so they set up kioscos and pollajerias next to other kioscos and pollajerias – because that’s all they know to do.

And it’s not the government that is at fault. And it’s not the rich to blame. If only it were that simple.

Maté

Maté flows through the very veins of Argentines. Like a secret potion, it is carefully concocted as hot water is poured into tazas tightly packed with shredded mate leaves. And almost as if in a sacred ritual of hospitality and solidarity, the cup of maté is passed around for each person to sip heartily from a metal bombilla fashioned with a strainer.

On first sip, the maté is dark and has woodsy undertones. It is as mysterious and foreboding as Argentina’s complex and contrasting social and political scenes that draw you in on your first encounter, beckoning you to discover what lies at their cores. Its flavors are as capricious as the Argentina that transitions from fashionable metropolises in the city centers to absolute destitution, crumbling homes, open sewers, and streets strewn with trash in a matter of a few blocks.

The drink resonates with the spirit of Argentina. Mary sweetens hers with a heaping spoonful of sugar. Roberto likes his straight. Regardless, its full-bodied character inevitably emerges. And it is devastatingly bitter.

Argentina Day 2

Bella entered my life today. (She's the one in the green and white.) It'll be good to have something close by to love.

La Plata is a city "sin mucho movimiento" on any day, but on Sundays in particular, this city founded solidly on the Catholic faith, truly rests.

It was a day for careful exploration of the cities and a chance to enjoy the cafe's as well as the small kiosks that opened for business. First was Cafe Paris, a small cafe that, true to its name, is modeled after those in France. Displays of colorful pastries line the cafe and coffee or tea is served in delicate tazas. Service is slow, yet personal, as the waiters take many moments to speak with the turistas and explain with glee their nation's pastries and delicacies.

Rollito con dulce de leche y crema fresca

Un pastel de manzana's

Argentinians appear to enjoy their fair share of sweets, though the thin frames of the Argentinians walking the streets will never betray this.

A variety of Argentine candy

Among today's purchases was a cake of crema fresca y fruta to be brought as a gift to those at the bank tomorrow. Tomorrow marks our first day of work and hopefully our first chance to meet with the clients.

Wish us luck!

Argentina Day 1

Argentina’s present state of recovery and recuperation is apparent in its every aspect. Argentina has always had a strong culture, with its people speaking in “che’s,” and predominantly in “vosotros,” almost in a state of defiance to the rest of the Spanish-speaking nations. In the words of our dear gray and grisly bearded Roberto, one of our many loving hosts here, the Argentinians are a passionate people. And if anything at all, they are passionate of their country. However, beneath the passion lies sadness that is brought to life each night in the sorrowful and solemn dance of the Argentine tango. Long inhibited by political and economic unrest, Argentina is just barely beginning to emerge from its burdens and reinstate its nationalistic pride that had formerly only prevailed by tongue through the “che’s,” and “vosotros” in their language. And it’s readily apparent.

The governmental buildings of La Plata that lie in disrepair and have revolutionary graffiti emblazoned on their white walls are slowly being renovated and repaired by construction workers. I do not deny – the slum neighborhoods consisting of ill-constructed shanties and lean-to’s clumsily constructed of rusting metal and planks of wood amidst piles of junk and trash are still very much a reality. However, they now stand in the shadows of high-rise apartment buildings and government sponsored and subsidized cookie-cutter houses where children and their families can move into, away from the illness, rats, pests, and trash that they had formerly lived amongst. And all this change in the looks of the country is supported by real and substantive change in the government and economy. Microfinance institutions such as that of our very own Grameen Bank are effectively working towards empowering the impoverished to bring themselves out of poverty. And Pinky says the political system is good. “The president is good. But Argentina’s a hard country to rule,” he says. Elections are today, and the people are indeed excited, because they know that they now live in a true democracy - And for a people that has just recently begun to experience true democracy, it is priceless.

In this state of recuperation, you see traces of Argentina fiercely holding onto its past as renovation projects are often conducted such that the familiar characteristics of the old architecture remain. The renowned cathedral of La Plata still stands as it did when it was first commissioned and constructed, just as the old Catholic faith still pervades in this country.

La Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción de La Plata

Interior de La Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción de La Plata

However, there are also those cases in which the old is torn down to construct buildings that are reminiscent of the 19^th and 20^th century architectural style of norteamericano. Even this passionate country is not immune to the lure of the red and yellow double arches of the McDonalds.