Saying Goodbye

During my childhood, nobody ever really told me exactly what a Grandfather was. In class, they told me that a grandfather was the father of my mother or father. But beyond that, no teacher ever really told me exactly what role my Grandfather should play in my life or what he should mean to me. So I developed my own conception of what a Grandfather was, based on the Grandfathers that I saw in books, television shows, and movies. And I found out that according to American books, television shows, and movies, Grandfathers are the men who have grey hair, sit by the fireplace, tell long stories, and occasionally ask you to pull on their finger. My grandfather was none of these things. My grandfather was an entirely different kind of grandfather. And he was so much better in so many ways. He wasn’t the type of Grandpa who would sit by the fireplace, tell long stories, and never did he ask me to pull on his finger. Instead, he was the type of Grandfather who would take long walks with me throughout his neighborhood, showing me his Korea – his nation that he had served throughout his life in the Army, and the nation that he loved. I remember that it was during one of these walks that he showed me for the first time the Moo-Goong-Hwa, the national Korean flower and explained to me its significance with pride as he plucked one, and gently set it behind my ear. We must have been an odd sight as we walked through the streets of Korea together. He was a wise old man with few words who walked with a slow and stately pace. I was a little girl who talked far too much and bounced up and down as I walked, pointing out everything I saw. But he listened to everything I had to say and answered my numerous questions with the greatest patience in the world. I see now that these walks were my Grandfather’s way of not only showing me how much he loved me, but also his way of instilling in me wisdom and a sense of who I was and where I came from.

And when he got too old to walk with me, we would sit and watch TV together. And that was enough to make me the happiest little girl in the world, because I could see even during those times just how much he loved me by the way that the corners of his mouth turned up whenever I caught him looking at me. And he would laugh. He had an unforgettable, hearty laugh that was always accompanied by a special twinkle in his eye.

My grandfather was many things to many people during his life: he was an Army captain, and a loving father and husband. According to everyone I spoke with, he was also a good looking man with the most handsome ears in all of Korea. To me, he was the only Grandfather I had ever known. He is the man who taught me early on the importance of patience and the value in a genuine smile. He is the man who taught me how to love silently. He is the man that I will forever remember every time I see a Moo-Goong-Hwa flower or hear a hearty laugh. And he is the man that I will daily look forward to seeing once again one day in heaven.

I love you, Grandpa, and I miss you so much.

Peluqueria

Today marks our final official day at Grameen. Tomorrow marks the first day of a two week trip throughout Argentina, Chile, and Paraguay.

I'm excited to go home, but a part of me will always be here with the people I've come to love over my short stay here. I'll miss them all - particularly this one.

Peluqueria with Viktoria

Isn't she adorable?

Los Seres Humanos

Arana has been a point of contention amongst the Grameen Bank operators since the inception of the new center. In physical distance, it is only a few blocks and two bus rides away. However, it couldn’t be further away in emotional and mental distance.

Arana was not always as rural and still as it is now. The abandoned offices were once milling with people. Factories turned profits and trains sped by on their ways to all-important destinations. But Argentina is a vibrant and dynamic country. Arana couldn’t have expected it to stay still forever. But when Argentina’s political and economic climates changed drastically, the factories failed to adjust.

The now closed and abandoned shell of a factory now stands as an ominous portent of the risks of failing to progress. Yet, the people who occupy the area fail to heed it; they are quick to close their hearts and minds at the first sign of change or trouble and are slow to explore and discuss possible solutions. Yet, oddly enough, all of this town that is so set in its ways closes for the formal presentation of the presidential candidate, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner, the wife of current President Néstor Kirchner, who is attempting to ride on the coattails of the much loved Eva Perón. Aside from having been Argentina’s First Lady at one point in time, the two couldn’t be any more different. Fernández lacks the heart for the humble that was the driving force behind Evita, her benevolence, and her popularity. Yet it was precisely for this announcement that all of the humble community of Arana, its schools, and businesses closed.

It is undoubtedly an estranged area. However, the people in it are still los seres humanos, and in this commonality we find the ability to relate to them, commiserating with them in their difficulties, and rejoicing in their successes. It’s an odd thing, this commonality that transcends not only city lines, but social classes, religious sects, and political lines, as well. And sometimes, for one to be able to interact on a meaningful level with those who appear to be the others, one must only see and respect this commonality. Most of the time, this respect is all “they” want and need.

Cultural Immersion

What cultural experience would be complete without an encounter with the country's medical system? So when I wound up in the emergency room with a torn ligament today, I did what any rational patient would do: I took pictures.

Doctor's Station

View 1 from the examination table.

View 2 from the examination table
View 3 reclining on the examination table

I found the experience riveting, beginning with the smoke-filled hallways and waiting rooms. In exchange for my first and last name, and age, I was immediately admitted into the emergency room. After a short wait, a young doctor clad in street clothing knelt down, proceeded to poke my ankle, look at my wincing face, and promptly declare the ligament to be torn, prescribing me painkillers without a single question regarding my medical history. House would've loved the medical system here. :) And then I was out the door. No insurance, no fees, and no forms. Just a "ciao."

Dinner at Roberto's

Homes here in La Plata differ in building material ranging from wood and stecco to brick and concrete. They are antiquated, modern, highly stylized, simple, well-constructed, or falling to pieces. Many are rather small. It's a wonder that they can pack in so much love and hospitality in addition to the 3 ... 8 ... 14 children in each family.

Dinner at Roberto's was a great glimpse into an Argentine family. The level of affection that pervades Argentine culture is perhaps most starkly seen in the kisses with which they all greet each other here. This affection is even stronger within the household, between siblings, and parents and their children.

In stark contrast to the image of a stately or reserved father, Roberto, a former film director created a photo montage for Violeta, appropriately set to the song Pompilla. Immanuel has an extremely close relationship with Mariaemma, his mom, with whom he shares every detail of his day as soon as he gets home. Rather than shrug off hugs and feign a macho demeanor as many of the teenage boys his age do, he openly hugs and kisses his little brothers, and speaks with respect of Violeta and Juan.

Roberto and Mariaemma have given their children the freedom to choose nearly everything for themselves. Perhaps it was because they were such strong models of honesty, solidarity, humility, and moral upstanding themselves, that the children given such free reign, chose to become such strong and wise people. Undoubtedly, the openly expressed unconditional love that the parents showed them helped make them into the confident people that they are today.

Violeta and Auca

Auca

Violeta and RobertoMariaemma and Immanuel

Microfinance

Grameen Bank of La Plata focuses on giving loans to improve a borrower’s life holistically. This is precisely because microfinance is founded on the idea of solidarity as collateral. It is a solid attestation to the fact that you can strip people of all financial and material possessions, and they can still create value from solidarity, respect, and trust.

This focus on improving the lives of borrowers holistically gives microfinance its strength in an emotional and personal aspect, but it is also a significant weakness when it comes to intellectual or financial senses, because oftentimes, this focus on solidarity and trust inhibits the bank from doing the financially sound thing.

And this polar contrast is perhaps perfectly exhibited by Oscar and Anna. Thursday, July 5 marked the grand opening of a new Grameen center in Arana. But it has been a topic of contention for quite some time between the individuals at the bank with different ideologies. Anna questions the bank’s new presence in Arana. It is a crudely constructed neighborhood that has arisen from the remains of an abandoned oil factory. On any given day, you’ll see more cows, horses, and stray dogs than you will see people. Yes, the potential market is too small. Yes, there isn’t enough potential for diversity to avoid competition between the borrowers. Yes, managing risk will be a challenging if not impossible task. Yes, it is inefficient to stretch the bank’s resources out to reach such an isolated area. Yes. Yes. Yes. But the need is there, and that is why they must go, Oscar says – the poorer the borrowers, the better.

As its name entails, microfinance is still concerned with finance. And risk management is undoubtedly a key concern here with these high risk-profile borrowers. It is just that oftentimes, personal and emotional concerns trump financial soundness. And so Grameen has a 94% repayment rate excluding interest, and is still not self-sustainable. How can we find a balance?

Abandoned railroad station, now a home.

Abandoned boxcar, now a home.

Ramona, a former borrower, now a new group leader with Grameen

Roberto

The Grand Opening in the Community Center

Paola and her children with her first loan

Oscar and Roberto

The Weekend in Pictures

Hostal Don Sanchez

(apparently on one of the dodgiest streets in BA)

La Boca
(El Caminito)La Cancha de Boca

La Casa Amarilla

Plaza Mayor
(Casa Rosada)

The Cathedral by Plaza Mayor

Parque Lezzama

(Not Pictured: Tango at Homero Manzi (!!!), Avenida de Corrientes, Avenida Florida, La Recoleta, the mausoleum of Eva Peron, Plaza Francia)

P.S.
It is 9:30 PM (PDT), and my mother is at a Rain concert.